Istanbul Day 5 - City Walls of Byzantium
Pakup's Istanbul refracts the city through his own eyes as well as
those of other Istanbul and foreign writers such as Flaubert, Nerval,
Gautier and Twain. This is what makes this book such a powerful
testimony. It's not an over-romaticised view of the author's city but
an honest account of many perspectives. He sees that foreign visitors
can see the picturesque in a way that is difficult for its residents,
as they harbour too many memories. He also sees how western art
managed to capture the city in a way that Islamic art did not. On the
other hand he praises the journalism and historians of his own city.
Grand Bazaar
A walk through Bazaar is no real hassle and there's much to see, and
buy. It's a riot of colour, but really aimed at foreign tourists,
therefore full of tat. The entrances, however, I loved. Just outside
of these the city springs into real life. Inside, it's all a show.
Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque (1609)
Returned to step inside the famous blue interior. The interior has
scale but not the elegance of the Suliymaniye. Its tile covered walls
are certainly impressive - it nearly exhausted the Iznic kilns but I
prefer the exterior with its six minarets.The cube is topped by an
ascending system of domes and semi-domes, culminating in the central
dome, which is 33 meters in diameter and 43 meters high at its central
point. The overall effect is one of perfect visual harmony, leading
the eye up to the peak of the dome. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque is the
only mosque in Turkey that has six minarets. When the number of
minarets was revealed, the Sultan was criticized for presumption,
since this was, at the time, the same number as at the mosque of the
Ka'aba in Mecca. He overcame this problem by paying for a seventh
minaret at the Mecca mosque. At its lower levels the interior of the
mosque is lined with more than 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles, made at
Iznik (the ancient Nicaea). Its upper levels are painted. More than
200 stained glass windows with intricate designs admit natural light,
today assisted by chandeliers. On the chandeliers, ostrich eggs are
found that were meant to avoid cobwebs inside the mosque by repelling
spiders. The decorations include verses from the Qur'an, many of them
made by Seyyid Kasim Gubari, regarded as the greatest calligrapher of
his time.
Roxene's Hamman (1556)
Suleyman's wife's bath complex. Now a carpet museum/shop this is well
worth a visit. Completely symmetrical (men and women entered at
opposite sides), you wander trough rooms littered with wonderful
carpets. Extensively restored, it was a working hamman until 1910.
Archaeological Museum
This was a real surprise. One room contains a chronological history of
Istanbul with full explanations for all of its major Roman and
Byzantine buildings, gone or still standing. This is an ideal
introduction to the history and architecture of the city. There's a
full floor of exhibits from Schlieman's Troy, displayed layer by
layer. Then there's a beautiful pavilion dedicated to the history of
tiles and ceramics. But the masterpiece is the Alexander Sarcophogus,
not his tomb, but that of a Lydian King who decorated his tomb with
deeds of his hero. The workmanship is astounding. The treaty of
Kadesh, which we had seen written at Abu Simbel in Egypt a few months
ago was seen written from the other Hittite side in cruciform on baked
clay in the museum.
Lunch at an excellent little kebab restaurant in Emindou - a spicy
lamb stew roasted in a metal dish with onions, peppers and tomatoes
and superb baclava.
City Walls
After lunch we took the tram to Topaki, a poor area but bang on the
middle of the city walls. It felt a little dangerous, and indeed
someone did warn us about `bad men', so Gil headed back with Carl to
the hotel but Callum and I persevered and walked the couple of miles
down the outside of the walls to the Golden gate, almost on the
Bosphorus. Earthquakes, especially in 1894, have caused more damage
than cannons ever did but these walls are fairly intact with their
octagonal towers, main curtain wall, second front wall and moat and
ditch in front, now used as a series of market gardens. At various
points, the original gates, one can see the width and structure of the
walls in cross section. The Golden gate was an original Byzantine
structure topped with a statue of a chariot drawn by an elephant. The
Ottomans build a castle facing inwards to the city behind the gate
after they captured the city in 1453. We walked along its walls and
inside its huge towers. Sure enough, on top of the Golden gate, we
found the hollowed out footprints of the now missing elephant. The
areas directly behind the walls are dirt poor but everywhere is
brightened up with pastry shops and small restaurants. E had a look at
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