istanbul noir

Istanbul Noir

I know, I haven't posted in a week. I'm saving these stories for the

screenplay.

This town does not stop. I just checked out of the hotel, but don't

leave until 5am this morning. I was hoping to go to Hagia Sophia - I

have been trying for days, but I keep getting distracted en route.

This town does not stop, and it's been one strange and exciting

adventure after the other.

Now I hear Hagia Sophia is closed for Bayram, the holiday that marks

the end of Ramazan. I can't believe I've been here a week and missed

this. I've barely even explored Sultanahmet, the historic district

with all the mosques and markets and ruins. On the other hand, I got

to know Taksim and Beyoglu quite well. Sultanahmet and Nisintasi (the

high end yuppie district) are the places most tourists see. They are

missing out - Beyoglu is the beating heart of the new Istanbul. There

are miles of pedestrian walkways winding their way around the cafes

and embassies and clubs and stores. I've seen so much, and have met a

novel's worth of characters. I really do think I can get a killer

story out of this for the Advocate. Istanbul is better than hip - it's

pre-hip. One day Beyoglu will be known and the beautiful people will

all flock here again.

So I missed the Hagia Sophia and the museums. The only other regret is

that I lost Duwane's number - the American I met earlier. I clicked

with him in that rare way that sometimes happens. We hung out a lot,

and I got to see the city through an ex-pat's eyes. It was all good,

until I went to call him yesterday ... and couldn't find his number.

And he doesn't have mine. I knew his address, and went out to his

neighborhood yesterday to leave a mesage on his apartment's front

door, but got chased off by the apartment manager. And now I'm stuck -