Istanbul 5 - Trellis Maximus
HIPPODROME: SITE
Piece by piece the hippodrome, formerly one of the most monumental
buildings in the city at 500 meters long and 120 meters wide, has been
broken down into the fragments of park and road that are found today
in what is called At Meydani (Square of Horses). This massive palace
of spectacle is relegated to sidebar anecdotes in tour guides. The
30,000 killed in the Nika revolt sounds huge, but the physical
presence of the building that brought them together is nowhere to be
seen. This massive piece of the city is gone, traced by the shortened
roadway and crumbling but still muscular sphendome. Constantine has
been emasculated.
Almost everyone in the area is a visitor or serving the visitors. The
hippodrome site is pretty close to ground zero for tourism. It is
within walking distance to the four most visited places: the Blue
Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, the Covered Market, and Topkapi Palace. And
yet, the park is curiously vacant. With the July and August sun
bearing down during prime tourist season, the few people that are in
the At Meydani are either quickly getting their fill of the monuments,
or are clustered in the shade of one of the small trees. It doesn't
have the shade of the courtyard of the Blue Mosque, the fountain of
the central garden, or the refreshments of nearby tea gardens. Neither
does it have the monumentality of the nearby sites; as such, it is
reduced to a curious footnote between bigger and better things.
HIPPODROME: SHAPING THE SUN
In a climate with an abundance of hot sun and cooling breezes it is
natural that a tradition of screens and trellises would develop.
Pervasive carved window screens did triple duty of keeping prying eyes
and the sun out, and allowing air circulation in. They are mostly
simple masonry affairs, sturdy and meant to convey security, though
often in the palaces they achieve a high degree of fragility that
belies their stone origins. This mediation between dark and light is
found everywhere from Byzantine churches to the Ottoman baths; these
buildings prized shade and darkness as much as light. The threshold
between dark and light, inside and outside, was an opportunity to
shape the light into the formal mode of that era.
A more quotidian and prevalent form of sun control are the many
overhead trellises around the city. Many streets have this form of
public covering, negotiating between several different buildings. It
usually covers a caf�, where it is normal to rest at length while
playing backgammon and drinking tea. This is one of the most common
scenes in Istanbul, whether in Sultanahmet or Zeytinburnu (though in
Levent it is more likely you will find umbrellas and a Starbucks). The
trellises usually host thick vines, allowing only dappled light to hit
the seats below, which die off in the winter time when it is more
appropriate to have direct sunlight.
HIPPODROME: TRELLIS MAXIMUS
My proposal is to add a monumental trellis to the former space of the
hippodrome, roughly the height and size of the original structure.
This would float above the space that is presently broken up by
surrounding buildings, paths, trees and street furniture, and allow a
vision of the scale of the original structure. Additionally, it would
provide much needed shade to the park. Since so much of the ground of
the former hippodrome is occupied, a trellis floating about 30 meters
above would pass over the impediments below, and approximate the
height of the former building. It would unify the area and become an
attraction and point of discussion in its own right, a new entry in
the tourist itinerary.
The site would be cleared of as many obstacles (trees, fences, light
poles, etc.) as possible, allowing once again a view along the length
of the spina. Necessary vehicle traffic would still follow the path of
the old track, though calmed for the additional visitors using the
park and viewing sphendome. Ideally the school on the sphendome would
eventually be torn down (and added to the recycled park wall, of
course), freeing up the privileged axial view of the Sea of Marmara
from the city center.
The trellis would use an Ottoman motif (why not vine leaves?) for the
screen, conflating multiple cultural histories in the new structure.
The sun screen would employ ceramic technology, an industry that
reached its high point in the Iznik tiles covering the Blue Mosque
interior, and used today for everything from tourist plates to
covering the space shuttle. At night, the ceramic screen could be lit
from below, eliminating the need for the numerous pole fixtures, and
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