istanbul bosphorus grand bazaar mosque

Istanbul Bosphorus Grand Bazaar Mosque of Suleyman

There's far more to Turkey's capital, Istanbul, than belly dancers and

steam baths.

It's certainly still possible to while away the hours watching the

mesmerising twitching of a glamorous maiden, or letting the cares of

the world drift into space in a relaxing Turkish bath.

But where else could you view the life and styles of a couple of

continents in a few hours?

The Bosphorus marks the dividing line between Europe and Asia.

And a boat trip on the river - all hustle, bustle and stops on the way

- is a must during any visit to Istanbul.

For peanuts (a couple of quid, although it seems much more because you

get so many Turkish lira to the pound) you can sail away on an

enchanting mix of past and present, splendour and simplicity, as you

zigzag across the Bosphorus from Asia to Europe.

Our trip had a party atmosphere as groups of schoolgirls practised

their disco and Turkish dancing.

The only trouble with the exchange rate is that once you get

bargaining in Istanbul's massive Grand Bazaar you forget that tens of

thousands of lira can be less than a pound!

The bazaar is a mesmerising maze of tempting treasures in almost 5000

shops.

It's great for exquisite carpets, beautifully carved pipes, luxurious

leather goods and the inevitable counterfeit Cartiers.

You can't visit Istanbul without getting your fill of mosques and

minarets. There are more than 1,000 domes in the city and the faithful

are called to prayer five times a day from the from the pencil-slim

minarets. But with new technology, the chanters don't hike it to the

top now. They stay on ground level, using microphones and speakers to

project their message.

WHEN it comes to checking out Istanbul's mosques you're spoiled for

choice, but expect to be given a wrap-around skirt - that goes for the

men, too - if you're wearing shorts.

The Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent - with its 52 metre high dome -

is pretty magnificent, standing as it does on one of the seven hills

of Istanbul.

Topkapi Palace isn't too bad either. The former great palace of the

Ottoman sultans, it overlooks the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, the

inlet that splits the European part of the city in two.

But if you've had your fill of grand buildings, what better way to

wind down than sipping a welcoming beer in the Palace grounds

restaurant?

For a lively evening, head for the Fruit Market where, under a giant

domed ceiling, locals and tourists mix in a non-stop babble of

conversation.

Or plan to eat at Kumpali, a former fishing village now full of open-

air fish restaurants with strolling musicians.

For a change of mood, head for the sophisticated Tepe Bar on the 20th

floor of the Marmara Hotel, which has a panoramic view to take your

breath away.

As many tour operators now do twin-centre trips to Turkey, why not mix

and match a beach holiday with a visit to Istanbul?