Chora Church, Istanbul
The Chora Church (Turkish Kariye M�zesi, Kariye Camii, or Kariye
Kilisesi -- the Chora Museum, Mosque or Church) is considered to be
one of the most beautiful examples of a Byzantine church. The church
is situated in the western, Edirnekapi district of Istanbul. In the
16th century, the church was converted into a mosque by the Ottoman
rulers, and it became a secularised museum in 1948. The interior of
the building is covered with fine mosaics and frescoes.
The Chora Church was originally built outside the walls of
Constantinople, to the south of the Golden Horn. The church's full
name was the Church of the Holy Saviour in the Country. The last part
of that name, Chora, referring to its location originally outside of
the walls, became the shortened name of the church. The original
church on this site was built in the early 5th century, and stood
outside of the 4th century walls of Constantine the Great. However,
when Theodosius II built his impregnable land walls in 413-414, the
church became incorporated within the city's defences, but retained
the name Chora. The name must have caried symbolic meaning, as the
mosaics in the narthex describe Christ as the Land of the Living and
Mary, the Mother of Jesus, as the Container of the Uncontainable.
The majority of the fabric of the current building, however, dates
from 1077-1081, when Maria Ducaena, the mother-in-law of Alexius I
Comnenus, rebuilt the Chora Church as an inscribed cross or quincunx:
a popular architectural style of the time. Early in the 12th century,
the church suffered a partial collapse, perhaps due to an earthquake.
The church was rebuilt by Isaac Comnenus, Alexius's third son.
However, it was only after the third phase of building, two centuries
after, that the church as it stands today was completed. The powerful
Byzantine statesman Theodore Metochites endowed the church with much
of its fine mosaics and frescos. Theodore's impressive decoration of
the interior was carried out between 1315 and 1321. The mosaic-work is
the finest example of the Palaeologus Renaissance. However much we
know of the benefactors, the artists remain unknown. In 1328, Theodore
was sent into exile by the usurper Andronicus III Palaeologus.
However, he was allowed to return to the city two years later, and
lived out the last two years of his life as a monk in his Chora
Church.
Around fifty years after the fall of Constantinople to the Ottomans
(in 1453), Atik Ali Pasa, the grand vizier of Sultan Bayezid II,
ordered the Chora Church be converted into a mosque -- Kariye Camii.
Due to the prohibition against images in Islam, the mosaics and
frescoes were covered behind a layer of plaster. This and frequent
earthquakes in the region have taken their toll on the artwork.
In 1948, Thomas Whittemore and Paul A. Underwood, from the Byzantine
Institute of America and the Dumbarton Oaks Center for Byzantine
Studies, sponsored a programme of restoration. From that time on, the
building ceased to be a functioning mosque. In 1958, it was opened to
the public as a museum -- Kariye M�zesi.
Interior
The Chora Church is not as grand in stature as some of the other
Byzantine churches of Istanbul (it covers 742.5 m�), but what it lacks
in size, it makes up for in the exquisite beauty of its interior. The
building divides into three main areas: the entrance hall or narthex,
the main body of the church or naos, and the side chapel or
parecclesion. The building has six domes: two in the esonarthex, one
in the parecclesion and three in the naos.
Narthex
The main, west door of the Chora Church opens into the narthex. It
divides north-south into the exonarthex and esonarthex.
Exonarthex
The exonarthex is the first part of the church that one enters. It is
a transverse corridor, 4 m wide and 23 m long, which is partially open
on its eastern length into the parallel esonarthex. The southern end
of the exonarthex opens out through the esonarthex forming a western
ante-chamber to the parecclesion. The mosaics that decorate the
exonarthex include:
Joseph's dream and journey to Bethlehem;
Enrollment for taxation;
Nativity, birth of Christ;
Journey of the Magi;
Inquiry of King Herod;
Flight into Egypt;
Two frescoes of the massacres ordered by King Herod;
Mothers mourning for their children;
Flight of Elizabeth, mother of John the Baptist;
Joseph dreaming, return of the holy family from Egypt to Nazareth;
Christ taken to Jerusalem for the Passover;
John the Baptist bearing witness to Christ;
Miracle;
Three more Miracles.
Jesus Christ;
Virgin and Angels praying.
Esonarthex
The esonarthex is similar to the exonarthex, running parallel to it.
Like the exonarthex, the esonarthex is 4 m wide, but it is slightly
shorter, 18 m long. Its central, eastern door opens into the naos,
whilst another door, at the southern end of the esonarthex opens into
the rectangular ante-chamber of the parecclesion. At its northern end,
a door from the esonarthex leads into a broad west-east corridor that
runs along the northern side of the naos and into the prothesis. The
esonarthex has two domes. The smaller is above the entrance to the
norther corridor; the larger is midway between the entrances into the
naos and the pareclession.
Enthroned Christ with Theodore Metochites presenting a model of his
church;
Saint Peter;
Saint Paul;
Deesis, Christ and the Virgin Mary (without John the Baptist) with two
donors below;
Genealogy of Christ;
Religious and noble ancestors of Christ.
The mosaics in the first three bays of the inner narthex give an
account of the Virgin's birth and life. Some of them are as follows:
Rejection of Joachim's offerings;
Annunciation of Saint Anne, the angel of the Lord announcing to Anne
that her prayer for a child has been heard;
Meeting of Joachim and Anne;
Birth of the Virgin Mary;
First seven steps of the Virgin;
The Virgin given affection by her parents;
The Virgin blessed by the priests;
Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple;
The Virgin receiving bread from an Angel;
The Virgin receiving the skein of purple wool, as the priests decided
to have the attendant maidens weave a veil for the Temple;
Zechariah praying, when it was the time to marry for the Virgin, High
Priest Zechariah called all the widowers together and placed their
rods on the altar, praying for a sign showing to whom she should be
given;
The Virgin entrusted to Joseph;
Joseph taking the Virgin to his house;
Annunciation to the Virgin at the well;
Joseph leaving the Virgin, Joseph had to leave for six months on
business and when he returned the Virgin was pregnant and he is
suspicious of that.
Naos
The central doors of the esonarthex lead into the main body of the
church, the naos. The largest dome in the church (7.7 m diameter) is
above the centre of the naos. Two smaller domes flank the modest apse:
the northern dome is over the prothesis, which is linked by short
passage to the bema; the southern dome is over the diaconicon, which
is reached via the parecclesion.
Koimesis, the Dormition of the Virgin. Before ascending to Heaven, her
last sleep. Jesus is holding an infant, symbol of Mary's soul;
Jesus Christ;
Virgin Mary.
Parecclesion
To the right of the esonarthex, doors open into the side chapel, or
parecclesion. The parecclesion was used as a mortuary chapel for
family burials and memorials. The second largest dome (4.5 m diameter)
in the church graces the centre of the roof of the parecclesion. A
small passageway links the parecclesion directly into the naos, and
off this passage can be found a small oratory and a storeroom. The
parecclesion is covered in frescoes:
Anastasis, the Resurrection. Christ, who had just broken down the
gates of hell, is standing in the middle and trying to pull Adam and
Eve out of their tombs. Behind Adam stand John the Baptist, David, and
Solomon. Others are righteous kings;
Second coming of Christ, the last judgment. Jesus is enthroned and on
both sides the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist (this trio is also
called the Deesis);
Virgin and Child;
Heavenly Court of Angels;
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