korfez istanbul

Korfez, Istanbul

We wanted a highlight in Istanbul... and Korfez certainly gave it to

us. What a place. What a journey. What great theatre. What sublime

food. If you visit Istanbul you've got to go here.

It's the other side of the water from where we were staying in

Beyoglu... on the Asian shore. It was tipping it down and we were, as

ever, late. So we got a cab all the way round which took the best part

of an hour to get there. Our cab driver was brilliant but didn't know

where we were going so we stopped off at loads of random places on the

way.

On arrival we did not have a clue what to expect. It looks like a

random ex-pat house from the road but reveals itself to be a glorious

yacht-esque type place once you see it from the waterfront which it

clings to precariously.

The menu read brilliantly. But one thing was missing... the price.

Scary. We looked at the wine list and extrapolated that it was going

to be pricey but we would be able to afford it as a treat!

Tucked away in a corner we asked politely if we could move to a window

table so we could soak up the incredible view of cars streaming over

the bridge and the mosques and old town lit up lke something out of a

Holliwood blockbuster. We were graciously moved to position A in the

restaurant once another couple had left.

We had a small collection of meze as a pre starter including two of

the most interesting dishes we'd had in a long time. Tarama tasted not

a bit like anything that normally has tarama in its title. It was

soft. Slightly fruity. Creamy. And beautiful. Such a clean taste.

Stunning.

The other immense meze dish was something with smoked egg plant that

was glorious. The smokiness was dazzling. So much so I can taste it

now when I think hard enough. It looked pretty dull but tasted magic.

Once we had been upgraded to the royal box things got even better. We

couldn't help evesdropping on an executive from Microsoft's

nauseatingly dull conversation! Showing off to his guests.

My starter of a vast prawn with a sweet and sour sauce and noodles was

a very original piece of cooking and not something I was expecting. It

was like a small lobster really and covered in a great little sauce.

I nipped off to the loo and came back to find Cowie surrounded by 4

waiters and all the customers staring at our table! As I sat down the

commotion died down. Then it picked up again as quickly as it faded as

the head waiter set a large copper cauldron of salt covered sea bass

on fire having doused it in brandy and then smashed the cauldron with

a hammer! Drama! Noise. Commotion. And a devastatingly awesome dish.

The fish was so soft it melted each time I put a piece in my mouth. It

was a dish I never wanted to end.

I've completely forgotten what Cowie had. Whatever she had was good...

I guess I was so blown away by the sea bass that everythung else has

slipped throuh my collander of a memory!

But the best bit was yet to come... we had seen a wealthy couple leave

by private boat and had gossiped about how much we'd love to be able

to afford our own boat home rather than a lenghtly cab journey. After

a second coffee we plucked up courage to ask the waiter whether the

boat was available for use... he said of course it was a complimentary

private boat for the restaurant! So we leapt up and danced onto our

boat feeling like film stars watching our favourite restaurant in

Istanbul twinkle into the distance as we swept across the Bosphorous.